“If I scare myself once every day, I’m a better person….It helps to have that little jolt of perspective that life’s fragile.” Laird Hamilton in The Wave, by Susan Casey
copyright Tom Servais |
Casey spends some of the time discussing surfing, especially tow-surfing where the waves are so big surfers are put in place and hauled out via Jet-Skis. Invented by surfer Laird Hamilton, the surfing world has been rattled by the ability to ride bigger waves than ever. She follows him into the water, and explores the sort of mentality that makes someone want to ride a wave that could easily pummel them. Then she examines the science behind the big waves in Hawaii, California, Mexico, and beyond. Spending time in Alaska, she looks at how the region was affected by a tsunami in the 1930s and shows just how much unimaginable damage was done.
Andrew Ingram/The Cape Times |
Besides the fascinating material covered, the book features photographs and maps to illustrate the dynamic forces of the sea. I really love this book! Yes, I’m too excited about it. I should be more subtle. Thing is, it’s that good. It has become my new “go to” book for a gift...just as Erik Larson’s Devil in the White City was several years ago, because I really can’t think of anyone who wouldn’t be fascinated. It would be especially interesting to pair the reading of this book with watching the documentary Riding Giants, that shows Hamilton and other professional surfers tackling these big waves.
Special thanks to Judy Jacoby of Doubleday for the Review Copy.
Sounds like a great read Amy, I kind of like the idea that mother nature can still throw us a curve ball like rogue waves even with all of our technology and mad weather predicting skills.
ReplyDeleteI used to body board and am quite familiar with rogue waves a la the kind that appear when the swells come together just right at the Wedge in Newport Beach.
ReplyDeleteI've been hearing lots of really good things about this book lately. It's on the top of my Christmas wishlist. Great review!
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